Vintage Make up

One of my favorite clients is Rokit Vintage. Each season I head to their warehouse in Seven Sisters to shoot their look book. The warehouse is a goldmine of treasures, an assortment of vintage clothing from all the grand eras; Some classic designer pieces, from Levis first edition denim jackets to 80's floral Dior blouses but also some non designer pieces. I also love the amazing accessories.

Usually when you shoot a look book, it's one make up look through out and preferably as simple and fresh as possible, but with Rokit, I get to have a lot of fun with vintage make up looks. This season we did 50's, 60's, 70's and 80's make-up.

Below are a few pictures and some tips on how to re create the looks yourself.

50's Check List

- Brow powder ... A Big Brow is classic 50's... I used Clinique Brow Pencil and added some brown shadow to make them really dense http://www.clinique.co.uk/product/1595/8417/Makeup/Brows/NEW-Instant-Lift-for-Brows/index.tmpl
- Lashes...... I used super full lashes by Ardell and added loads of mascara. Just coat the top lashes.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Ardell-Fashion-Lash-117-Black/dp/B000VDZ0K6/ref=sr_1_41?ie=UTF8&qid=1354008837&sr=8-41
- Black liner.... I used Topshop Black gel eyeliner...you need a fairly thick line on the top lash line and a perfect flick.
http://www.topshop.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?beginIndex=21&viewAllFlag=&catalogId=33057&storeId=12556&productId=2256801&langId=-1&sort_field=Relevance&categoryId=208566&parent_categoryId=208495&pageSize=20
- Red lipstick.....I used No17 Hot Chilli lipstick - Great colour and a bargain. http://www.boots.com/en/17-Lasting-Fix-Lipstick_925988/
- Contour cream or powder............I used Tom Ford shade and illuminate..My favourite product at the moment, even though it costs a hefty £55. http://www.selfridges.com

60'S Check List

- Black Gel Liner...You need a thick line around the lashes. Paint think oblong lashes on the bottom. I used Black track by Mac.
- White eye liner...for inside the eye. I used Mac Chromographic pencil in NC15/NW20
- White and Charcoal eyeshadows... Use a white or pastel eyeshadow on the lid and then create a strong socket line with a grey or black eyeshadow. Add fake lashes to finish the look.
- Nude or pink Lipstick.... Mac Myth http://www.maccosmetics.co.uk/product/shaded/168/310/Products/Lips/Lipstick/Lipstick/index.tmpl
- Pink Blush..... Something Special by Mac http://www.maccosmetics.co.uk/product/shaded/156/15668/Products/Face/Cheek/Cremeblend-Blush/index.tmpl

70's

Check List

- Blue Liner and Shadow.... I used Mac Hi Def Cyan pencil... Circle around the eyelid and blend with blue shadows. I used Topshop Jackdaw eyeshadow, Mac Tilt eyeshadow and Becca Luella Jewel dust on top.

- Lahes.... I used Eylure Naturlites Lengthening... http://www.asos.com/search/Eylure?hrd=1&q=Eylure&affid=5571&wt.srch=1&r=2
- Thick black mascara.. coat the top and bottom heavily. I used L'Oreal volume million lashes..
http://www.boots.com/en/LOreal-Paris-Volume-Million-Lashes-mascara_1048297/?cm_mmc=bmm-_-google-_-Boots+Beauty-_-Dynamic+Search+Ads
- Nude Lipstick...I used Topshop Nevada Lipstckhttp://www.topshop.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?beginIndex=1&viewAllFlag=&catalogId=33057&storeId=12556&productId=2256878&langId=-1&sort_field=Relevance&categoryId=208567&parent_categoryId=208495&pageSize=200
- Bronzer...Use a matt bronzer, a good one is Guerlian. Create a contour with this but also add it all over for a flush of colour.

London Fashion week.

LFW

 A few of the models I made up for the Moschino show and JW Anderson show.

All make-up by Mac.

London fashion week has finally come to an end. After too many 5am starts and late finishes, I now have a few days to chill out and catch up on sleep. I also get to post some tips, pictures and product knowledge I collected during the mayhem.

During fashion week shows are usually sponsored by a brand who will provide ALL the make-up. Not ideal when you haven't worked with the products before or have a better alternative in a different brand!
Mac teams saturate backstage, sponsoring a load of the shows and placing their Pro teams amongst the other freelance make-up assistants. Other brands include L'Oreal, Revlon, Rimmel and MaxFactor. Mostly, it's big high street brands with big budgets. Luxury brands such as Chanel, Dior, Armani etc.. don't really have as much of a presence apart from on their own shows. However, there is always a YSL touche eclat, or a Chanel mascara floating around, out of site from photographers and press.

Backsatge at Topshop Unique Show (using the flush blush cheek colour on the eyes)

This season my shows were sponsored by L'Oreal, Rimmel, Topshop and Mac. I know Mac and Topshop make-up well, but previously L'Oreal and Rimmel didn't feature too heavily in my kit.......  Make-up artists can be a bit snobby about products, having cases filled with all the most expensive and exclusive collections. However I found some really good affordable make-up this week, which rivals a lot of the over priced rubbish out there.

Rimmel has a good  foundation called Match Perfection http://www.feelunique.com/p/Rimmel-Match-Perfection-Foundation-112g?gclid=COKTj4WmxLICFc93fAod_W0A8Q 

It adapts to the colour of your skin and isn't too heavy, mix it with a little L'oreal Magic Lumi Primer and you can achieve a glowing finish. http://www.boots.com/en/LOreal-Paris-Lumi-Magique-Primer-20ml_1247613/

Rimmel Kate collection and Pringle Presentation 

The new Rimmel Kate collection of lipsticks launches in October.  No. 111 Kiss of life (2nd in line) and no. 110 (4th in line) is what we used on the models at the Pringle presentation.

Rimmel also have a good selection of waterproof kohl liners launching soon. I really liked the nude colour, good to use for the inside of the eye to open them up. Launching October the 6th, I am told. A bargain at just £3.99.

This season I also got to head up my own team, for designer Jayne Piersons presentation. I used a great lipstick pencil called Hedonist by Topshop mixed with a Mac pencil called Summertime and finished the look with loads of mascara. I love the L'Oreal volume million lashes in extra black http://www.boots.com/en/LOreal-Paris-Volume-Million-Lashes-mascara_1048297/?cm_re=c1030_image1-_-loreal_cosmetics-_-million_lashes&cm_sp=brand_treatment-_-c1030-_-c1030_image1

Jayne Pierson Presentation

TOP PRODUCTS FOR FASHION WEEK

Every make-up artist has them, they are on every station backstage and to turn up to a show without them would be, quite frankly, unprofessional!!

1. Bioderma Crealine H20 cleanserhttp://www.amazon.co.uk/Bioderma-Crealine-Micelle-Solution-2X500ml/dp/B003MGRT2Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1348228164&sr=8-1

2. Mac Face and Body

http://www.maccosmetics.co.uk/product/shaded/158/393/Products/Face/Foundation/Face-And-Body-Foundation/index.tmpl

3. Embryolisse moisturiser

http://www.screenface.co.uk/beauty/moisturiser/embryolisse-lait-cr-me-concentre.htm

Off on Wednesday for Paris shows... so more to report on next week.....

Tool kit

Today I spent my time rummaging through my make-up kit in order to fill out a questionnaire for the Instyle beauty awards. A selection of make-up artists have been asked to name our favourite products and share top tips etc..
Whilst many of you know my choice of brands and favourite products, I don't think I've ever posted about the tools I use!!

Good brushes are essential and although they're expensive they last forever and are well worth investing in. I would strongly recommend a visit to Mac or Space NK for the best selection.

 - Invest in a good eye shadow brush, a tapered one works best. Hard flat brushes make it difficult to blend neatly. This is my favorite no.217 by MAC
http://www.maccosmetics.co.uk/product/145/380/Products/Brushes/Eye/217-Blending-Brush/index.tmpl
- A tiny bullet brush to blend any eyeliner above or below the lashes is a good brush too. Working your eyeliner into the skin with a brush will make it last much longer and prevent it from smudging too much. ( alternatively, you can always use a soft cotton bud ) http://uk.spacenk.com/Smokey-Eye-Liner-Brush/MUK157910009,en_GB,pd.html?start=5&cgid=BRANDS&prefn1=brand&prefv1=LAURA%20MERCIER
- A good bronzing and blusher brush are a must too. Patchy skin is preventable if you have beautiful brushes. Try http://www.maccosmetics.co.uk/product/146/304/Products/Brushes/Face/129-PowderBlush-Brush/index.tmpl
http://uk.spacenk.com/Bronzer-Brush/MUK144670009,en_GB,pd.html?start=18&cgid=SPUK3010207

If this is all a bit excessive then I suggest you pop into Boots and purchase the Ecotools Bamboo 5 piece brush set  http://www.ecotools.com/bamboo-5-piece-brush-set I recently bought these after forgetting my brushes and was so impressed by them that I bought a second pack.

Other tool essentials are
 - eye lash curlers... Shu Uemura do the best ones.
- cotton buds - the pointed ones  are great if you want to clean up any eyeliner or create a little kitten flick.
- tweeers by tweezerman are a must...

and finally if you have a few lipsticks floating on your dressing table or getting lost at the bottom of your bag, buy a little plastic pillbox from muji and transfer them all in there. http://www.muji.eu/pages/online.asp?V=1&Sec=18&Sub=74&PID=4958
You can mix and match colours and it's a great way to keep a track of them, if like me you are forever loosing your lipsticks!

CREAM OF THE CROP

There has been no excuse as to why I've not posted anything for a while. Honestly, thought no one would notice! However, truth be told, last week I was at a drinks party when someone commented on how much they enjoyed reading my snippets.Then, this weekend at a wedding, someone said they had recommended my blog to girls around their office and they're waiting for the next update... Very flattering and a reason to get back on it.
The pressure's on to share some really good tips and there's no better place to be discussing beauty tips than in the offices of Glamour Magazine. Last week I was called in to do the Editor, Jo Elvins make up, for a new show she is taking part in and I also had a good catch up with all the beauty team. We all get sent copious amounts of products to test and although each person differs with their favourite brand etc... there are some classic cult products that are renowned amongst beauty experts as a MUST for the make-up bag. So, when a friend recently called me for a list of what to buy for a new make-up kit here is what I suggested....


Foundation - Mac Face and Body - I have mentioned this before - Good for a dewy finish and the right amount of coverage. You will need a loose powder to dust down the t zone so you don't look too shiny http://www.maccosmetics.com/product/shaded/158/393/Products/Face/Foundation/Face-And-Body-Foundation/index.tmpl
Concealer - Origins Quick Hide concealer - This is a fairly new one. Lots of make up artists use Laura Mercier secret camouflage or Estee lauder Doublewear concealer, but I have taken to using origins regularly on shoots as it is really long lasting and oil free. http://www.origins.co.uk/product/4825/13249/Makeup/Category/Foundations-Concealer/Quick-Hide/Long-Wearing-Concealer/index.tmpl

Undereye illuminating pen - YSL touche eclat is a good product but I prefer the Dior Skinflash. Often I see my friends using these pens as concealers. They work differently to concealers. They reflect the light and therefore eliminate shadows so they are really only appropriate for under the eyes.
For a cheaper version try L'oreal touche magique pens. They have a balance of light concealer and illuminating product. Really great alternative to the very expensive designer brands.
 http://www.boots.com/en/LOreal-Paris-True-Match-Touche-Magique-Concealer_984446/

Bronzer -  Nars Laguna - Right amount of shimmer - http://www.narscosmetics.co.uk/nars-laguna?gclid=COCN9KKd2LACFUUhtAodQnBn3A
Highlighter - BECCA pearl shimmering skin perfector - http://www.beccacosmetics.com/uk/store/complexion/tinted-moisturisers/shimmering-skin-perfector/
Blusher - Nars Orgasm - http://www.narscosmetics.co.uk/the-latest/orgasm-collection/blush.html
Eye Liner - MacTeddy - http://www.maccosmetics.co.uk/ TOPTIP -  If you find your eyeliner smudges really easily then then make sure you use some powder over it. Smudge the liner with your finger and brush and then pat a light powder over it. You can also use this all over the eye, using some powder over it to stop it smudging....

Powder - Mac Prep and Prime -http://www.maccosmetics.co.uk/  A very fine translucent powder that will keep you make up in place.

With this ever so reliable English Summer, I have not a hint of a tan so am daily applying these truly reliable make-up products above!!!

Lashings of no Mascara

I have just returned from a perfect week skiing in the sunshine, only to be welcomed back to England by even more glorious weather. The daffodils will be in bloom soon and the shop windows are full of pretty pastels. It's my favourite time of  year, full of long evenings sipping rose with friends, picnics in the park and holidays. My only problem with holidays, is how to address the question of make-up? Obviously make-up in the evening is acceptable and essential, but day time make-up can be a tricky one to get right. You don't want to look vain and apply lashings of mascara and black eyeliner before breakfast. When you're surrounded by friends and family, who cares what you look like..right? But then again..How many of your friends have seen you in the morning tired and hungover, with absolutely no make-up!! Swimming pools, beaches and ski slopes are not make up friendly places. Your mascara runs, foundation doesn't last and the bright sunshine makes any bronzing blemishes very noticeable.  With all this to consider before my recent holiday, I went and had some semi permanent lashes applied - something I was always rather adverse to, having seen so many disasters. However, I'm now a convert. I was so surprised at how natural they looked and how they made such a noticeable difference. You can't use mascara with them, but there really is no need. I am told they should last about 4 weeks, and once they start to look a bit sparse it is best to remove them with an oily eye make-up remover, or like me book in for your next set. I can only recommend the girl I used called Asma at Becca London. http://www.beccacosmetics.com/uk/where-to-buy/becca-boutique-london/becca-boutique-makeup-services/
   Take a look at my before and after lashes. Its tricky to see in the pictures but believe me they're well worth considering before your summer hols....

 before

 the treatment process takes about 45mins

after

 after

Ageing Gracefully

I always start the new year with the best intentions. January - drink less, eat less and exercise more. So far so good, but with no alcohol or chocolate and hellish body conditioning classes, I am fully consumed by the January blues. It doesn't help that my skin is white and pasty and post Christmas bulges are stubbornly sitting on my hips and thighs, reminding me that now I am 30, a  'moment on the lips really is a lifetime on the hips....'

As I begin to deteriorate with age, I'd like nothing more than beautiful skin to accompany me on my way. I realise this is no mean feat, with the laws of science against me. It is from now on, 'only going to get worse', as my mother so kindly put it; but one should always make the most of a bad situation and there is so much on the market to help delay the dreaded ageing process. First week of January I booked myself in for a free skin consultation at balance clinic http   I had a number of scans, showing bad UV damage, some blocked pores and just one wrinkle (that cheered me up no end. Bottom - bad, wrinkles not so bad, Hurrah!!). The amount of sun damage is really quite shocking and in response I have been given a new skin regime to follow. I have started using an holistic brand called Skin Therapy by Julia D Hunter http://www.skinfitnessplus.com/whyskinfitnessplus.htm which includes a Vitamin C powder and a Maximal strength Hydrating gel. ://www.balancetheclinic.com

For anti ageing products always look out for Vitamin C, Retinol (vitamin A), and Hyaluronic acid. These three ingredients are strong anti oxidants. They fight the free radicals produced from the sun and pollutants which cause cell damage, and they help to renew collagen and keep the skin hydrated. A sunscreen is also a paramount ingredient in anti ageing products and should be used daily. However, blocking the sun will decrease your vitamin D intake, so be sure to take supplements. You want vitamin D3 1000 i.u. Doctors have seen a big increase in vitamin D deficiency recently, due to people increasing their usage of sunscreens.

Julia D Hunter is a dermatologist with a practice in Beverly Hills. Her brand is new to the UK and looks to be a big hit. I especially like her holistic approach, emphasising that the skin is just a window to what is going on inside. You will never cure the skin pathology unless you cure the internal cause. She promotes a healthy diet and lifestyle. So whilst I forbid myself from every bad ingredient this January and apply my new creams, I am looking forward to youthful glowing skin come February. Only one problem, it may not last; life's too short not to enjoy a bottle of wine, a bar of chocolate and a bathe on a beach. Everything in moderation I guess? And there we have it, a much more sensible new years resolution!!!

Screenface

What I love most about my job is the variety. Last week I was in a massive studio, filming Great Britain's team of gymnasts and this week I'm selling T-Shirts. A new label called Maison Twenty has launched, showcasing the work of twenty emerging artists. I was honoured to be asked to design three t-shirts for them. http://www.maisontwenty.com/

My Lip T-Shirts were inspired by a recent beauty story I shot. Shooting green, yellow and black lips is slightly more challenging than regular red or pink, so it was a professional make-up shop that provided the goods.

Screenface is a shop known by many make-up artists but probably not visited by regular shoppers.  However, it is well worth a visit, even if you're not a professional. http://www.screenface.co.uk/ It sells a fabulous brand called Embryolisse (previously only available in France). Their face moisturiser is a cult product backstage at shows, as is the body moisturiser. http://www.screenface.co.uk/beauty/cleansers-toners/embryolisse-lait-cr-me-concentre.htm

Fardel, is another great brand they sell. My favourite products are the amazing iridescent loose powders, great for dusting on cheekbones. If you like the Bobbi Brown shimmer bricks then you'll love these powders. http://www.screenface.co.uk/face-body-paint/glitter-shimmer/fardel-loose-iridescent-powder-5g.htm

Screenface have two shops; one in Covent Garden and another in Westbourne Grove but you can also order online.

KORRES LIP BUTTER

I always find as winter approaches people start wearing more make-up. That summer glow has long gone and with Christmas celebrations beginning, black kohl eyeliner and red lipstick are in high demand.
The cold winter temperatures cause havoc to our lips.  Previously, luscious red summer smiles become chapped, bluey/purple pouts. A red lipstick is a good way to to create a chic evening look whilst disguising your freezing lips. However, if like me you prefer something more subtle, a tinted lip balm is a good alternative. It will add a good amount of colour whilst moisturising.

These tinted lip butters are my favourite. I have the full range and love using them on my cheeks as well. A perfect little stocking filler http://www.zuneta.com/shop-by-brand/korres/lip-butter.html/
My favourite is Quince.

Quince, Pomegranate, Mango, Guava

Liz Earle Sheer Skin

I'm not easily impressed when it comes to foundations and tinted moisturisers. Many of them I find too heavy, chalky or odd shades. I always recommend Mac face and Body http://www.maccosmetics.co.uk/product/shaded/158/393/templatesproductsproductslandingtmpl/templatesproductscategorytmpl/templatesproductsmptmpl/Face-And-Body-Foundation/index.tmpl
Chanel Vitalumiere http://www.boots.com/en/CHANEL-VITALUMIERE-Satin-Smoothing-Fluid-Makeup-SPF-15_6543/
and Armani http://www.giorgioarmanibeauty.co.uk/_en/_gb/catalogue/MAKE_UP/product.aspx?prdcode=AP10101&tpcode=MAKE_UP_FACE_FOUNDATION for foundation and until recently the only tinted moisturisers I recommended were Laura Mercier and Becca. However, now Liz Earle (one of my favourite brands) has created a Sheer skin tint which I absolutely love. It contains the right amount of coverage for a natural finish and gives a glowing boost to the skin. There are presently only three shades but I'm sure they'll add to the collection eventually. Reasonably priced at £21 and also with a mineral UV protection I suggest you try one out...... http://uk.lizearle.com/make-up/sheer-skin-tint-spf15.html

London, Paris, Milan.....and Morocco!

I am currently relaxing in a five star hotel in sunny Paris after a manic two weeks of work. Shows in London and Milan, a 5am eurostar to Paris and two long days shooting the beautiful Lara Stone (supermodel and wife of David Walliams) has taken it's toll. I am tired but not complaining. It's been really fun and today I have time to relax in my white bath robe, chat to my make up pal and roomie and play with my new I pad!! As far as jobs go this is pretty good!
There have been countless make up discoveries along the way. Illuminating sticks from Madina (an amazing shop in Milan http://www.madina.it/ ); wonderful waxy lip pencils from Make up Store (a great make up haven on carnaby street); macs new matt mixing medium (allowing you to create your own cheek and eye creams); but above all else, the wondrous healing qualities of a well known classic, Sudocrem has to get a mention.
Roomie has had allergies over the past week and bumps have developed under her skin. To my horror she had been sleeping with Sudocrem lathered all over her chin. Amazingly the little bumps have started to disappear and she has seen a big improvement in her skin.
During shows and shoots it's not just make up tips I collect; working with amazing hair stylists you pick up a few hair secrets too. The Just Cavalli show was sponsored by Moroccan Oil  ( http://www.moroccanoil.com/ ) and a few of us were lucky enough to walk off with the collection of serums, sprays, and oil. Not having time to blow dry my hair at the moment, the de frizz spray has been a life saver and the oil is amazing for adding shine to dry or dull hair.
Off to a show trial later today at 5pm so better get moving....a trip to Sephora, a stroll along the Seine and a cafe noir awaits me.

Sunrise from Eurostar at 6am