You Tube Debut

If you want to know the technique for a quick smokey eye take a look at my master class on you tube.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QSFlZOWfXmo

I have also added some other master classes to my blog using some of the beautiful make-up by Becca.
http://www.beccacosmetics.com/

I wish I'd been a ballerina.......

Today I was shooting the graceful Prima ballerina Lauretta Scales. She is appearing in the upcoming Nutcraker, and although still only a baby at 18, is already being compared to Darcy Bussell. I prepared her make-up backstage in the changing room, where each girl has their own station, equipped with a mirror, and a rail for their beautiful costumes. There's no space for make-up artists or hair stylists here; a ballerina has to master the art of powder and hair pins alone. I watched Lauretta pin the perfect French role in her hair in less than ten minutes and with regards to make-up she said fake eyelashes were essential; a firm telling off is given to the dancers if they venture near the stage without them.

Lashes are definitely on trend this season, and I have some helpful tips on how to apply them.

Tools needed - Lashes, Lash glue (duo glue in white), tweezers and scissors.

1. Curl lashes and apply mascara before you apply your fake ones.
2. Make sure you check the length and cut them correctly before applying.
3. Put a small amount of glue on the back of your hand and wait a few seconds for it to become tacky, then pick up the lashes with your tweezers and coat the root with you glue.
http://www.johnandginger.co.uk/ardell-duo-lash-adhesive-clear-13000-0.html
4. The trick is to apply the lashes right at the root of your natural lash and not on the skin. Drop the lashes on top of your own lashes at the root, and the glue will hold them here securely.
5. If you want a subtle look go for individual lashes, my favourite are by Ardell. They don’t have the knot at the roots so are more easily hidden amongst your natural lashes.
- Applying a black liner on the top lash line will disguise any visible knots. http://www.johnandginger.co.uk/ardell-duralash-naturals-combo-black-13700-0.html
6. For a fun festive look try shopping at Shu Uemura, or alternatively check out these beautifully handmade paper lashes http://www.paperself.com/ps%20%20all.html

Topcoat

Seche Vite

 I was treated to a manicure by a friend in the industry last week. She used this amazing  glossy Top coat, Seche Vite.  Acknowledged as the best on the market, purchase it online at Asos...
http://www.asos.com/Seche/Seche-Vite--Dry-Fast-Coat/Prod/pgeproduct.aspx?iid=654940

Prepare for winter....

Last weekend I was working on the Topshop campaign outside a deserted monastery. It was absolutely freezing and far less glamorous than you'd imagine. Hand warmers and hotties were passed to the models in between shots to warm their spindly limbs, and keep their streaming noses and blue lips at bay.

Winter is here, and although the brisk outdoors can give you a healthy glow and beautiful Rosy cheeks, more often than not, it leaves one looking like a disheveled rat! Skin in the winter can be quite problematic. The central heating and extreme weather can dehydrate your skin and cause high colour. Therefore, this season I strongly recommend some good moisturiser and a good concealer.

Top three winter moisturisers for dry/dehydrated skin

1. Decleor  nutirboost cream
http://www.decleor.co.uk/shop/product/nutridivine-nutriboost-ultra-cocooning-cream---for-very-dry-skin-and-extreme-climates
2. Chanel Hyramax Active nutrition cream
http://www.boots.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?brand=CHANEL&storeId=10052&productID=SKPRE5FR
3. And for something more natural I suggest using Ren Rose O10 Oil, followed by Caudalie Vinosource quenching cream.
http://www.spacenk.co.uk/product/shop+by+brand/ren/200003149+rose+synergy+o12+restoring+facial+serum.do
http://www.spacenk.co.uk/product/shop+by+brand/caudalie/200006418+vinosource+quenching+creme+sorbet.do

Top Three concealers

1. Estee Lauder Maximum coverage foundation.
http://www.esteelauder.co.uk/templates/product/spp.tmpl?CATEGORY_ID=CAT20954&PRODUCT_ID=PROD94224
2. Laura Mercier secret camouflage http://www.spacenk.co.uk/product/shop+by+brand/laura+mercier/114163155+secret+camouflage.do
3. Mac select coverage
http://www.maccosmetics.co.uk/product/spp.tmpl?CATEGORY_ID=CAT21852&PRODUCT_ID=PROD66065

All these products are good for covering redness around the nose and if you get high colour below the apples of your cheeks, use a small amount of your concealer with your foundation for a little extra coverage. Concealer is not foundation though, so be sure to use it sparingly and only where it's needed - Spots, blemishes and redness. If you really suffer from high colour then I suggest using a colour balancing product such as Clinique's redness solution base. The sheer green colour corrects redness and evens skin tone.

http://www.clinique.co.uk/product/1596/6008/Makeup/Concealers/Redness-Solutions-Daily-Protective-Base-SPF-15/index.tmpl 

So, with perfect winter skin, have a little fun and try out some Christmas party looks with a virtual make over on the Topshop website http://www.topshop.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/StaticPageDisplay?catalogId=33057&storeId=12556&brdcrmb_trail=&identifier=ts2-virtual-makeover&intcmpid=W_FEATURE_MU_UK_WK39_VIRTUAL%20MAKEOVER

Budget Buys

The Best of Budget

Make-up can be expensive, a lot of the time it really is worth coughing up for the creme de la creme, however, if you’re shopping on a budget, there are some really good cheap alternatives out there

SWAP

Diorshow Mascara £21.50                 4       Maybelline Colossal Mascara £6.99

 http://www.boots.com/en/Maybelline-The-Colossal-Volum-Express-Mascara_861877/

YSL Touche éclat £24                          4         Lacura highlighting pen £3.95

http://www.aldi.co.uk/uk/html/product_range/product_range_7477.htm

Mac Face and Body £23                      4           MyFace Foundation £7.99

http://www.boots.com/en/Myface-Mymix-Foundation-Fair-35ml_847547/

Chanel waterproof eyeliner £17         4           L’Oreal contour resist waterproof eyeliner £4.49

http://www.shop4makeup.com/loreal-contour-resist-waterproof-retractable-eyeliner-p-614.html

Chanel Le Vernis Nail colour               4             No 7 Long Stay perfect Nail colour £6.75

Obviously you won’t get the same colours, but No. 7 quality is very good. My favourite colour at the moment is Totally Teal. I also think they have one of the best eye make-up removers out there http://www.boots.com/en/No7-Cleanse-Care-Eye-Make-up-Remover-100ml_15713/

Some other great products include :-

·         Barry M Lipliners http://www.barrym.com/lip-liners £2.99

·         Topshops lip glosses and balms. I love their blush in crushed berry, only £6.00 http://www.topshop.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?beginIndex=0&viewAllFlag=&catalogId=33057&storeId=12556&productId=1627599&langId=-1&sort_field=Relevance&categoryId=208568&parent_categoryId=208495&sort_field=Relevance&pageSize=200

·         Body Shop Body Butters are amazing. I use the coconut shimmer on shoots a lot for glowing skin http://www.thebodyshop.co.uk/_en/_gb/catalog/product.aspx?ParentCatCode=C_BathBody&CatCode=C_BathBody_BodyButterBodyLotion&prdcode=52339m#

Foundation Favourites

Flawless Foundation

Friends are always asking my advice on which foundations to buy.

Firstly, it really depends on your skin type.....Everyone has individual needs, so what works for one person may not be right for the next. Knowing where to start can be quite daunting, but I have listed a few of my favourites and added some useful tips to help you create the perfect base for your make-up.

Many people shy away from foundation as they feel it’s too heavy, but there are light formulas out there, that if used sparingly, help to even out the skin tone without creating an unflattering mask.  Foundation should not be applied too heavily; it should blend in with the skin to compliment what is already there and create a flawless finish. If you have blemishes, spots or redness that need extra coverage, then use a concealer. I like to use Bobbi Brown and Becca concealer sticks for this.

If however, you still prefer something lighter, there are some great tinted moisturisers to choose from. My skin is fairly unproblematic, so during the day when I want a really natural finish, I often use my Laura mercier tinted moisturiser or my Giorgio Armani face fabric.

·         When choosing your foundation, rub a little in around your jaw line to check the colour. It should blend in well and not look obvious.

·         Preparing your skin well is essential before foundation. Exfoliate if you have any dry/flaky areas and make sure your skin is well moisturised. This will make your make-up last longer and also appear less heavy.

Mac Face and Body http://www.maccosmetics.co.uk/product/spp.tmpl?CATEGORY_ID=CAT21853&PRODUCT_ID=PROD66138- This is a great foundation that leaves a natural and sheer finish to the skin. You can build it up if you need more coverage and it comes in a wide range of colours. I use it a lot on models and also on myself.
With more mature skin, especially around the eyes, be careful not to apply anything too matt. You need foundations with light reflective formulas. Chanel vitalumier is another one of my favourites. It offers more coverage than the Mac face and body so I tend to wear it in the evening for a more made up look. It leaves a beautiful dewy veil on the skin, however if you have oily skin I would suggest using the Chanel Matt lumiere.

Chanel and Mac are my choice of brands for foundation. However, I also occasionally use
Giorgio Armani -Luminous silk foundation which also has a beautifully natural sheer finish.
I really think it’s worth spending the money on good foundation, however for a cheaper alternative try myface.cosmetics http://www.myfacecosmetics.co.uk, which is quite similar to the Mac face and body.

I use my hands to apply foundation and once it’s settled onto the skin, I use a light translucent powder to dust over the tea zone to get rid of any shine. I love Mac prep and prime and Make-up forever HD translucent powder.

Happy shopping!

Paris 'La Pharmacie'

The Obscure backstage at Margiela. Lab coats and Latex in abundance!

4.30am alarm bell rings, and by 6.30am I'm on the Eurostar to Paris. With time to spare before the Margiela show, I head to my favourite shop in Paris... La Pharmacie!! I stocked up on Bioderma's crealine cleanser, an essential for my kit.

It's a delicate, water based cleanser for sensitive skin, and models always request it after the shows. It's not available in the UK, but worth knowing about, for when you next cross the channel. I can get through bottles of the stuff during fashion week, but fortunatley not a lot was needed for the Margiela show. The only make-up the models were removing was a little concealer. Minimal make-up meant we could really pamper  and prep their skin with goodies such as Dermalogica daily microfoliant http://www.dermalogica.com/uk/html/products/daily-microfoliant-11.html?type=function&cat=exfoliants
I also used another of my favourite products, Clarins beauty flash balm. I love applying this before my make-up, and usually mix it in with my moisturiser for a dewy finish.

Lipstick Palettes

Muji Lipstick Palettes

Carrying around a heavy suitcase laden with loads of different products is a real pain in the back..literally! So when I find a way of organising my make-up and making it more compact I’m delighted. These little pill cases from Muji are great. They're only £1.50 and each one has four moveable dividers within (I had to buy a few just for the dividers). They make perfect Lipstick palettes, you can get rid of all the extra weight from packaging, and also find exactly what you’re looking for quickly. I’ve marked all the names on the front of the box!  

http://www.muji.eu/pages/online.asp?V=1&Sec=18&Sub=74&PID=2310

LFW

Topshop Unique Show

Glossy Red lips was the brief and we used the new Topshop Make-up brand.

Daredevil Red Lipstick with loads of Cardinal Sin Lipgloss.

Pimple Problem Solved

Origins Spot Remover

Having always had good skin, I’m slightly alarmed at nearly reaching thirty and acquiring much more than the odd pimple. Luckily I have a load of great concealers to cover them up. Estee Lauder double wear concealer is great, as well as Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage. However, whilst covering them up is effective, I always try and catch them before they develop into a full blown nasty. This origins spot remover really does the trick http://www.origins.co.uk

MORNING MIRACLE

Just woken up after day two of using my Darphin balm and skin feels silky smooth!

MORNING MIRACLE

A Parisian Cult-Classic

So after a rather big weekend full of drinking and over eating, I had a Monday detox. I ate only fruit, drank two litres of water and used this amazing night balm by Darphin. My skin felt amazing on Tuesday morning.  Their products are specifically targeted for different skin types/needs using a variety of essential oils. On their website you can go to their personal programme page and they will recommend which products are best suited for you http://www.darphin.co.uk/
Another brand which is very popular amongst make-up artists is Decleor, it is similiar to Darphin in it's use a of aromatic oils. A few drops of Arromesense before your moisturiser is  a great way to make your skin glow and reinforce the effects of your moisturiser. http://www.decleor.co.uk/shop/product/aromessence-neroli

HIGHLIGHTING

One of my favourite brands of make-up is BECCA. Not everyone has heard of them, but their shimmering skin perfector is a favourite amongst make-up artists. They have three shades, Pearl being the most popular.
When applying highlighter it's important to make sure its blended well so that it doesn't look like its sitting on top of the skin. You can create a youthful glow by applying it on the cheekbone and then up around the brow bone. Another useful tip is to dab a little above your lips on your cupids bow and a little down the bridge of the nose, make sure not to put it on the end of your nose though. I usually apply with my fingers and then buff it in with a brush afterwards. Always apply after your foundation and before your concealer. If using cream highlighters then you should use a cream blusher. BECCA has just launched a new waterproof beach tint called fig which is a really pretty subtle pink. If you prefer powder blushers then use a powder highlighter, bobbi brown shimmer bricks are also great. You can get different shades of highlighters, if you just want a healthy natural looking glow then stay away from ones with too much pink/lilac in them as they can be very obvious on the skin. Mixing a small amount of highlighter in with your foundation can also boost some life into your skin and using some on your collar bones and legs is another great way to get your skin looking well moisturised.

http://www.sheerluxe.com/blog/lingerie-love-affair.htm

For anyone who wants to revamp their knicker drawers!!

Liz Earle Soothing Eye lotion

This is one of my favourite products. I use it a lot on shoots, and models always ask me for its name.

A great treatment for the morning after a big night! Soak two cotton pads and press them into your eye sockets and leave them to soothe the eyes for a minute or so.

Embryolisse Cream

An excellent moisturiser that is another make-up artists essential is Embryolisse cream. Until recently it was only available in France and picked up by make-up artists during the shows in Paris, but now it is available over here and is one of the greatest creams to use on sensitive skin. http://www.screenface.com/

The Perfect Red lips

Red lips is a reoccuring theme on the catwalks and in magazines, but it's not an easy one to get right. If done correctly you can avoid looking like you've just stepped out of an 80's music video!

1. Be sure to get the right colour for your skin tone. It tends to be that the paler you are the more suited you are to a red with blue undertones. For darker skin, red with orange/pinky tones are good. A staple matt red lipstick in every make-up artists kit is Rubywoo by Mac. It is the one I used on Paloma Faith for a shoot for recognise magazine. http://www.recognizemagazine.com/ and also at the Martin Margiela show in Paris last season.
2. Matt lipticks are great for longevity but can be quite ageing. Lipsticks with a sheer finish tend to be more flattering.
My favourites are

• Matt reds - Illamasquas Maneater and Shu Umera 165.
• Sheer reds - Laura Merciers Truly red and Urban Decays Revolution.

3. Always use a brush or a pencil if you want a perfect outline. Lip liner alone is a great way to acheive a precise red lip and  Barry M's number 3 is a fabulous bright crimson.
4. Paling down the lips first with a bit of lip primer/concealer makes it easier to be more precise.
5. Once you've finished the first coat, blot with tissue and add another coat.
6. A great tip to make sure your lips are even - Hold a small mirror below your chin at an angle and you will be able to see more easily if areas need filling out.
7. For those less brave who want a more subtle look just dab a small amount of lipstick on top of some lip balm and gently rub it in with your finger.