Fashion week finish

So I'm back from Paris after three days of working with make-up artist Hannah Murray. I've been her first assistant this season, so it's been a busy few weeks, but also a lot of fun.
During the shows there's a lot of running around backstage. When the models line up for the beginning of the show, finishing touches are applied and a dusting of powder is always at hand for any shiny skin or to matt down greasy skin.
I am not generally a fan of powder, as it can make your make-up look heavy and unnatural. However, it is an important piece of make-up and essential for any unwanted shine. The right powder and brush makes a big difference to the finish.
Most people only need to powder down the t-zone (unless you have particularly greasy skin) and often people make the mistake of using a big brush with too much product. I love Ruby and Millie brushes. http://www.boots.com/en/Ruby-Millie/
 They have a great small blusher brush which is perfect for powdering. It’s small enough to get the powder in the grooves around the nose and under the chin, but also good for dusting the forehead and under the eyes (if needs be).
I prefer to use loose translucent powders. My favourites are:
Make-up Forever HD powder - It's not available in the UK, but if you're visting a Sephora soon pop in and stock up. http://www.sephora.com/browse/product.jhtml?id=P210400&categoryId=S10810&shouldPaginate=true
Mac Prep and Prime is a great alternative to this http://www.maccosmetics.co.uk/product/spp.tmpl?CATEGORY_ID=CAT27293&PRODUCT_ID=PROD93850  and Laura Mercier mineral powder is another one I can highly recommend.

Mac Mixing Medium

As some of you know, one of my favourite foundations is Face and Body by Mac. It's a cult product and it's popularity is due to a special formulation that leaves the skin looking fresh and radiant. This special formula can now be purchased in the form of Mac's face and body mixing medium. The translucent liquid can be mixed in with your foundation (whatever brand you use) and provides a beautiful dewy finish. It also works wonders on its own by refreshing your make-up without adding more coverage. It's been a saviour backstage this week at the shows; with girls getting ready almost four hours before they set foot on the catwalk, a last minute application of this makes them look newly made up!
It is only available at the Mac Pro store - somewhere definitely worth a visit.

The Best of Black

Recent shoot with Photographer Craig Fordham and Stylist Tamsin Vaughan

For this shoot I created a classic winged smokey eye. It's a versatile look and there are many ways to create it, but essentially you need the darkest of kohl liners and the blackest of black shadows or creams. Getting the right products is important, strong pigments are essential to avoid patchy blending and long lasting products that don't smudge are another must.   

Once you have the essentials you can always play around with adding different colours. A great tip is to smudge some Vaseline in with your kohl liner or even some clear lip gloss.

Mac - Fluidline - Blacktrack - http://www.maccosmetics.co.uk/product/spp.tmpl?CATEGORY_ID=CAT21847&PRODUCT_ID=PROD66211&77tadunit=fcb8c5d7&77tadvert=4635619599&77tkeyword=mac%20blacktrack&77tentrytype=s&cm_guid=1-_-100000000000000038274-_-4635619599&cm_mmc=Google-_-Mac+Best+Sellers-_-Fluidline-_-mac+blacktrack

This is a gel eyeliner that is ebony black and great to line around the lashes. For a really dark smokey eye take it up to the socket line, smudge it in with a brush and blend with a bit of shadow. As it's a gel you don't have residue falling below creating panda eyes.

The Bobbi Brown gel eyeliners are also great and have a good array of colours.

Estee Lauder double wear stay in place eyeliner in onyx

http://www.esteelauder.co.uk/templates/product/mpp.tmpl?CATEGORY_ID=CAT20971

This is perfect for the inside of the lash line as it's waterproof so is longer lasting. I also love the midnight blue.

Estee Lauder Zero smudge Liquid Eyeliner

http://www.esteelauder.co.uk/templates/product/spp.tmpl?CATEGORY_ID=CAT20971&PRODUCT_ID=PROD74803

A great liquid liner for the classic 50's flick, it's a glossy dark black and has a good pointed applicator. For extra precision apply liquid liner with a small liner brush.

Laura Mercier Noir eye Matt colour http://www.spacenk.co.uk/product/shop+by+brand/laura+mercier/makeup/eye/200003436+eye+colour+-+matte+eye+colour.do

A matt eyeshadow with a deep black pigment. To avoid lots of residue below your eyes make sure you tap your brush to get rid of any excess.

Shu Uemura cream shadow  http://www.shuuemura.co.uk/makeup/eyes/eye-shadows/cream-eye-shadow.aspx 

For a more lived in smokey eye use a cream shadow and blend it in with the kohl eyeliners below.

Lancome black kohl http://www.boots.com/en/Lancome-Crayon-Khol-Eye-Pencil-Liner_5675/ This is a soft pencil but great to line around the eye and smudge in with a brush. Also good for inside the eye.

Topshop Black coal http://www.topshop.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?beginIndex=0&viewAllFlag=&catalogId=33057&storeId=12556&productId=1628035&langId=-1&sort_field=Relevance&categoryId=208566&parent_categoryId=208495&sort_field=Relevance&pageSize=20

Again this is a soft pencil so needs to be blended in with a brush or some creamy shadows.

Elizabeth Arden Black Kohl pencil http://www.johnlewis.com/127230/Beauty.aspx
Mac Technakohl eyeliner in Graphic black http://www.maccosmetics.co.uk/product/spp.tmpl?CATEGORY_ID=CAT21847&PRODUCT_ID=PROD71032

New Year, New skin

What better way to start the New Year than brushing away all those dead skin cells.
As we get older skin renewal slows down, so exfoliating twice a week is a good way to ensure your skin stays looking youthful. It’s also essential for long lasting make-up. There are two different types of product to help with this.

1.      Chemical exfoliants which contain alph hydroxy acids (natural occurring acids) such as lactic acid, salicylic acid and retinol work by dissolving the dead skin cells and are a good way to reduce fine lines, unblock pores and reveal new fresher skin. My favourite is Ren glycolic peel.

 http://www.lookfantastic.com/beauty/ren/face-care/ren-glycolatic-skin-renewal-peel-mask.html  

However, on occasion these peels can cause slight irritation so if you have sensitive skin you can always try the second option of exfoliation.

2.      Physical exfoliants use ingredients that you gently massage on the skin to brush away the old surface.

I love Liz Earle, http://uk.lizearle.com/problem-solution/gentle-face-exfoliator.html

Sisley http://www.harrods.com/product/sisley/gentle-facial-buffing-cream-all-skin-types/000000000000231683?cat1=b-sisley&cat2=skin&cat3=cleansetonemoist

and Dermalogica http://www.beautyflash.co.uk/dermalogica/exfoliants/daily-microfoliant.html

I always rinse off these treatments with a muslin cloth and some warm water and then spritz my face with my favourite Caudalie Beauty Elixir http://www.spacenk.co.uk/product/shop+by+brand/caudalie/beauty+elixir+100ml.do

Load your skin with your favourite moisturiser and you should feel the difference immediately.

You Tube Debut

If you want to know the technique for a quick smokey eye take a look at my master class on you tube.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QSFlZOWfXmo

I have also added some other master classes to my blog using some of the beautiful make-up by Becca.
http://www.beccacosmetics.com/

I wish I'd been a ballerina.......

Today I was shooting the graceful Prima ballerina Lauretta Scales. She is appearing in the upcoming Nutcraker, and although still only a baby at 18, is already being compared to Darcy Bussell. I prepared her make-up backstage in the changing room, where each girl has their own station, equipped with a mirror, and a rail for their beautiful costumes. There's no space for make-up artists or hair stylists here; a ballerina has to master the art of powder and hair pins alone. I watched Lauretta pin the perfect French role in her hair in less than ten minutes and with regards to make-up she said fake eyelashes were essential; a firm telling off is given to the dancers if they venture near the stage without them.

Lashes are definitely on trend this season, and I have some helpful tips on how to apply them.

Tools needed - Lashes, Lash glue (duo glue in white), tweezers and scissors.

1. Curl lashes and apply mascara before you apply your fake ones.
2. Make sure you check the length and cut them correctly before applying.
3. Put a small amount of glue on the back of your hand and wait a few seconds for it to become tacky, then pick up the lashes with your tweezers and coat the root with you glue.
http://www.johnandginger.co.uk/ardell-duo-lash-adhesive-clear-13000-0.html
4. The trick is to apply the lashes right at the root of your natural lash and not on the skin. Drop the lashes on top of your own lashes at the root, and the glue will hold them here securely.
5. If you want a subtle look go for individual lashes, my favourite are by Ardell. They don’t have the knot at the roots so are more easily hidden amongst your natural lashes.
- Applying a black liner on the top lash line will disguise any visible knots. http://www.johnandginger.co.uk/ardell-duralash-naturals-combo-black-13700-0.html
6. For a fun festive look try shopping at Shu Uemura, or alternatively check out these beautifully handmade paper lashes http://www.paperself.com/ps%20%20all.html

Topcoat

Seche Vite

 I was treated to a manicure by a friend in the industry last week. She used this amazing  glossy Top coat, Seche Vite.  Acknowledged as the best on the market, purchase it online at Asos...
http://www.asos.com/Seche/Seche-Vite--Dry-Fast-Coat/Prod/pgeproduct.aspx?iid=654940

Prepare for winter....

Last weekend I was working on the Topshop campaign outside a deserted monastery. It was absolutely freezing and far less glamorous than you'd imagine. Hand warmers and hotties were passed to the models in between shots to warm their spindly limbs, and keep their streaming noses and blue lips at bay.

Winter is here, and although the brisk outdoors can give you a healthy glow and beautiful Rosy cheeks, more often than not, it leaves one looking like a disheveled rat! Skin in the winter can be quite problematic. The central heating and extreme weather can dehydrate your skin and cause high colour. Therefore, this season I strongly recommend some good moisturiser and a good concealer.

Top three winter moisturisers for dry/dehydrated skin

1. Decleor  nutirboost cream
http://www.decleor.co.uk/shop/product/nutridivine-nutriboost-ultra-cocooning-cream---for-very-dry-skin-and-extreme-climates
2. Chanel Hyramax Active nutrition cream
http://www.boots.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?brand=CHANEL&storeId=10052&productID=SKPRE5FR
3. And for something more natural I suggest using Ren Rose O10 Oil, followed by Caudalie Vinosource quenching cream.
http://www.spacenk.co.uk/product/shop+by+brand/ren/200003149+rose+synergy+o12+restoring+facial+serum.do
http://www.spacenk.co.uk/product/shop+by+brand/caudalie/200006418+vinosource+quenching+creme+sorbet.do

Top Three concealers

1. Estee Lauder Maximum coverage foundation.
http://www.esteelauder.co.uk/templates/product/spp.tmpl?CATEGORY_ID=CAT20954&PRODUCT_ID=PROD94224
2. Laura Mercier secret camouflage http://www.spacenk.co.uk/product/shop+by+brand/laura+mercier/114163155+secret+camouflage.do
3. Mac select coverage
http://www.maccosmetics.co.uk/product/spp.tmpl?CATEGORY_ID=CAT21852&PRODUCT_ID=PROD66065

All these products are good for covering redness around the nose and if you get high colour below the apples of your cheeks, use a small amount of your concealer with your foundation for a little extra coverage. Concealer is not foundation though, so be sure to use it sparingly and only where it's needed - Spots, blemishes and redness. If you really suffer from high colour then I suggest using a colour balancing product such as Clinique's redness solution base. The sheer green colour corrects redness and evens skin tone.

http://www.clinique.co.uk/product/1596/6008/Makeup/Concealers/Redness-Solutions-Daily-Protective-Base-SPF-15/index.tmpl 

So, with perfect winter skin, have a little fun and try out some Christmas party looks with a virtual make over on the Topshop website http://www.topshop.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/StaticPageDisplay?catalogId=33057&storeId=12556&brdcrmb_trail=&identifier=ts2-virtual-makeover&intcmpid=W_FEATURE_MU_UK_WK39_VIRTUAL%20MAKEOVER

Budget Buys

The Best of Budget

Make-up can be expensive, a lot of the time it really is worth coughing up for the creme de la creme, however, if you’re shopping on a budget, there are some really good cheap alternatives out there

SWAP

Diorshow Mascara £21.50                 4       Maybelline Colossal Mascara £6.99

 http://www.boots.com/en/Maybelline-The-Colossal-Volum-Express-Mascara_861877/

YSL Touche éclat £24                          4         Lacura highlighting pen £3.95

http://www.aldi.co.uk/uk/html/product_range/product_range_7477.htm

Mac Face and Body £23                      4           MyFace Foundation £7.99

http://www.boots.com/en/Myface-Mymix-Foundation-Fair-35ml_847547/

Chanel waterproof eyeliner £17         4           L’Oreal contour resist waterproof eyeliner £4.49

http://www.shop4makeup.com/loreal-contour-resist-waterproof-retractable-eyeliner-p-614.html

Chanel Le Vernis Nail colour               4             No 7 Long Stay perfect Nail colour £6.75

Obviously you won’t get the same colours, but No. 7 quality is very good. My favourite colour at the moment is Totally Teal. I also think they have one of the best eye make-up removers out there http://www.boots.com/en/No7-Cleanse-Care-Eye-Make-up-Remover-100ml_15713/

Some other great products include :-

·         Barry M Lipliners http://www.barrym.com/lip-liners £2.99

·         Topshops lip glosses and balms. I love their blush in crushed berry, only £6.00 http://www.topshop.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?beginIndex=0&viewAllFlag=&catalogId=33057&storeId=12556&productId=1627599&langId=-1&sort_field=Relevance&categoryId=208568&parent_categoryId=208495&sort_field=Relevance&pageSize=200

·         Body Shop Body Butters are amazing. I use the coconut shimmer on shoots a lot for glowing skin http://www.thebodyshop.co.uk/_en/_gb/catalog/product.aspx?ParentCatCode=C_BathBody&CatCode=C_BathBody_BodyButterBodyLotion&prdcode=52339m#

Foundation Favourites

Flawless Foundation

Friends are always asking my advice on which foundations to buy.

Firstly, it really depends on your skin type.....Everyone has individual needs, so what works for one person may not be right for the next. Knowing where to start can be quite daunting, but I have listed a few of my favourites and added some useful tips to help you create the perfect base for your make-up.

Many people shy away from foundation as they feel it’s too heavy, but there are light formulas out there, that if used sparingly, help to even out the skin tone without creating an unflattering mask.  Foundation should not be applied too heavily; it should blend in with the skin to compliment what is already there and create a flawless finish. If you have blemishes, spots or redness that need extra coverage, then use a concealer. I like to use Bobbi Brown and Becca concealer sticks for this.

If however, you still prefer something lighter, there are some great tinted moisturisers to choose from. My skin is fairly unproblematic, so during the day when I want a really natural finish, I often use my Laura mercier tinted moisturiser or my Giorgio Armani face fabric.

·         When choosing your foundation, rub a little in around your jaw line to check the colour. It should blend in well and not look obvious.

·         Preparing your skin well is essential before foundation. Exfoliate if you have any dry/flaky areas and make sure your skin is well moisturised. This will make your make-up last longer and also appear less heavy.

Mac Face and Body http://www.maccosmetics.co.uk/product/spp.tmpl?CATEGORY_ID=CAT21853&PRODUCT_ID=PROD66138- This is a great foundation that leaves a natural and sheer finish to the skin. You can build it up if you need more coverage and it comes in a wide range of colours. I use it a lot on models and also on myself.
With more mature skin, especially around the eyes, be careful not to apply anything too matt. You need foundations with light reflective formulas. Chanel vitalumier is another one of my favourites. It offers more coverage than the Mac face and body so I tend to wear it in the evening for a more made up look. It leaves a beautiful dewy veil on the skin, however if you have oily skin I would suggest using the Chanel Matt lumiere.

Chanel and Mac are my choice of brands for foundation. However, I also occasionally use
Giorgio Armani -Luminous silk foundation which also has a beautifully natural sheer finish.
I really think it’s worth spending the money on good foundation, however for a cheaper alternative try myface.cosmetics http://www.myfacecosmetics.co.uk, which is quite similar to the Mac face and body.

I use my hands to apply foundation and once it’s settled onto the skin, I use a light translucent powder to dust over the tea zone to get rid of any shine. I love Mac prep and prime and Make-up forever HD translucent powder.

Happy shopping!